BLOSSOM DIM SUM & GRILL || Rethinking Asian Fusion and Dim Sum
As the world gets more connected day by day, we see cultures blending into one another, and one of the first fields where you see experimentation and innovation is in the international language of culinary arts.
We have written about our experiences at a selection of restaurants categorized as ‘fusion’ restaurants, and this latest one takes a new spin on blending the tastes of Asian and Southeast Asian with Italian cooking techniques.
EXECUTIVE CHEF DEREK BOTHWELL
Derek grew up in Alberta, sharpening his knives on the family farm where he also got inspired by his mother’s homestyle cooking. He then brought his farm-to-table cooking to Vancouver, where he worked as the Executive Chef at Chill Winton, Guilt & Co, and The Bottleneck. As a Red Seal Certified Chef and part of the Earthwise community, he heads a team that’s committed to using seasonal, local and ethically sourced ingredients. Dim Sum Chef Jensen Auyang works alongside Derek, bringing over a decade of experience overseeing dim sum kitchens at notable Chinese restaurants including Sea Harbour Seafood Restaurant, Fortune House, and Lee Garden Seafood Restaurant.
Derek recalls how exciting it was to join a diverse team, in which he was the only member who did not speak Chinese, but he quickly saw the value in the diverse approaches and inspirations on the team, and this dynamic setup has grown into one of the restaurant’s key strengths in crafting a signature menu.
The restaurant had opened in June of 2019, and just three months into operations, the team decided to do an overhaul of the menu, because the original offerings had members of the team isolated, contrary to the cross-functional, creative teams they initially had in mind.
Cozy booths in the front bar area.
“Everyone was very much isolated in their own stations and two months into that we didn’t like where things were going, because this is not what the original vision was supposed to be. The vision was to combine technique and flavours so that we could break down culinary boundaries. We used to have a full-on sushi section over at the bar and we toned that back because we realized this restaurant was not really a sushi destination. So we want to focus on something that no one else is doing. So, we took a step back and re-evaluated what worked and what didn’t. We are now much more satisfied with the new menu which we launched just a month ago and is more focused on inventive, fusion-style dishes.”
Neon lights in the front bar area.
DRAMATIC, CONTRASTING INTERIORS
Step inside the second-floor restaurant overlooking the bustling Robson shopping street and the front bar area communicates a casual, cozy and even retro vibe with its glowing pink neon lights and velvet booths. A fireplace flanked by comfortable velvet sofas is the optimal space to cozy up over the winter months as one sips on a cocktail or beer.
The dining room is in stark contrast to the bar area, with airy, high ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows inviting abundant natural light into the room, giving the intricate wall paintings an angelic glow. Chinese paper umbrellas inspired by West Lake in China are hung upside down in a myriad of beautiful colours and patterns.
A private dining room overlooking Robson Street and another private space encased by an elegant glass wine storage give guests additional discretion for business or special occasions.
Chinese paper umbrellas are inspired by West Lake (Hangzhou) in China.
Plush red velvet booths set against a vivid painted backdrop with characteristic lighting fixtures.
THE FOOD | RETHINKING INGREDIENTS AND PRESENTATION
The interiors reflect the restaurant’s aim to mesh elements from different cultures, and the menu furthers this mission.
Chef Derek invests a significant amount of time experimenting with how eastern and western ingredients work together. Take for example the ravioli filled with Siu Mai and the traditional lotus leaf wrapped glutinous rice that’s been replaced with a mushroom truffle risotto, Chef Derek spent numerous days figuring out the thickness of the ravioli to ensure it doesn’t break under the weight of the siu mai filling. Innovation requires dedication from the whole team and a culinary vision that is unique to the restaurant.
SIU MAI RAVIOLI
This dish brings together an iconic dim sum, siu mai, with a classic Italian vessel, ravioli. Inside this one extra-large ravioli, you can find a soft egg yolk, minced pork, and prawn that together deliver a tasty, flavourful bite. The crispy wild boar belly and arugula tomato salad serve to add texture to the dish.
Chef Derek describes this creation as a playful fusion dish showcasing what the team can do with classic, traditional dim sum. To avoid overcooking the egg, the siu mai filling is cooked first, egg yolk is then inserted and prior to serving, the dish is steamed. When you cut into it, the egg yolk moistens the meat and dough. You will feel like you are having carbonara, ravioli and Chinese Dim Sum in one bite. The recommended drink pairing for this dish would be the Antinori Vermentino in order to have that clean, lemony zest to balance the creaminess of the dish.
LOTUS WRAPPED RISOTTO
The usual lotus wrapped Chinese dim sum is served with salty egg yolk, pork and Chinese mushrooms with sticky rice; with Chef Derek’s rendition, sticky rice is swapped for risotto, and pork with free-range chicken and black truffle. This creative interpretation brings out a buttery flavour that balances well with the earthy aroma of the mushroom and lotus leaves.
CANADIAN PRIME BEEF SHORT RIB
We were most impressed by the process behind the creation of the Canadian Prime Beef Short Rib dish, which is prepared with root beer, Bourbon, Asian coleslaw and kimchi.
This dish is so flavourful and the meat so tender, juicy, yet still retains its firm texture because it takes two and a half-days to prepare. The meat is cured with coriander and fennel, a bit of cumin, salt and sugar. The meat is seared and braised in bourbon and root beer.
Chef Derek explains that they do it this way because any other cooking methods would dry out the meat, so they want to have the meat sit in the liquid overnight to let it absorb all the flavours before de-boning the meat and using a dim sum steamer to refresh the meat.
The black pepper glaze gives the meat a nice kick and a lingering sensation in the mouth, while the kimchi’s acidity refreshes the palate to offset the heaviness. The short rib would be best paired with La Stella Fortissimo Blend.
SOMETHING BORROWED, SOMETHING NEW
Chef Derek’s technique of taking classic and iconic elements from different cultures and pairing two or more key ingredients, flavours, or cooking techniques together has sparked something new and unique for the Vancouver community. While some would critique that the fusion is too overt, we would suggest that they first appreciate the amount of effort and thought that went into experimenting for these dishes, and commend Chef Derek and his team for trying something new - not everything will work, but as long as the team is committed to refining the menu to create a signature differentiating taste, we will eagerly await upcoming menu launches from Blossom Dim Sum & Grill.
For those who are seasoned foodies in Vancouver, the question becomes, are you ready for this new style of dim sum?
