Pendulum Magazine

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AVEIRO || A City with Two Faces

As we drove from Coimbra to Aveiro, I dreamed about the colourful houses and the tranquil canal. What makes Aveiro different from the other cities we’ve visited in Portugal? For one, it isn’t quite as tough to cover the city by foot, as the topography is much flatter than what you would experience in Coimbra, Lisbon, and Porto.

The city can easily be covered on foot. Wandering from one end to the other would take about thirty minutes at a leisurely pace. The city's center is, of course, dense with tourist traffic. With people piling into restaurants, lifestyle shops, churches, and more. As you walk along the canal, you can’t miss the colourful boats — moliceiros — cruising along, packed with even more tourists.

If you’re looking for peace and quiet, all you need to do is wander a few blocks away from all the action. We found two gems within a 10-minute walk from the city center, where we enjoyed some of the best meals on our trip in an intimate setting at reasonable prices. Il Libertino and Laguna are some of the restaurants we recommend adding to your list.

Another highlight of the city would be the architecture. Wandering the streets with our camera, we were intrigued by modern architecture alongside art nouveau buildings and numerous traditional ceramic-tile facades that would take your breath away. Visit the churches, and you’ll discover awe-inspiring elements like one of the most beautiful and ornate skylights we’ve seen.

I would say Aveiro, for me, was a city with two faces, one where you could enjoy the bustling energy of the city center, with bars, packed restaurants and a cruise down the canal in a moliceiro. Then there’s the other side, where you bask in the tranquillity and serenity of the historical architecture and enjoy a three-hour dinner in a floating restaurant. How you experience the city is up to you. Below is our photo story sharing both sides of the coin.

Busy canal with tourists piling into colourful boats (moliceiros).

This is the busiest area where you’ll find packed tables every day.

A street scene where you’ve got tourists snapping photos and others carrying groceries.

Intrigued by the mix of architecture along the water. From modern sharp lines to art nouveau influences.

Casa Portuguesa locations seem to be tourist gathering spots because everyone wants to try the cod croquette — Pastel de Bacalhau.

Capela de São Gonçalo.

Church of Aveiro's Mercy with a blue and white ceramic tile facade.

The Church Nossa Senhora da Apresentação with its intricate gilded details.

One of the most beautiful skylights we’ve seen.

Carmelite Church of Aveiro, is an 18th-century church declared a national monument in 1910.

Casa de Santa Zita. A 19th century building decorated in blue and white ceramic tiles called azulejos .

Photography by Florence Leung