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BRASS FISH TAVERN || Where Every Seat is in Demand

Housed in the historic Marine Building in downtown Vancouver, Brass Fish is a grandiose, yet earnest tavern.

Its ambitious design and food and beverage program are anchored by warm service to make visitors and locals alike feel welcomed whether they’re stepping in from a cruise ship or riding the elevator down from a corporate office. The room also plays host to an izakaya and stylish parlour room upstairs while happy hour and live music provide the spark for memorable social occasions.

Given the restaurant’s location inside of the iconic Marine Building, Donnelly Group in-house designers Mikaela Blain and Ricky Alvarez aimed for something which would have “some layers and interest. Design-wise, the space is intended to be classic, honest, and a little bit cheeky.”

Brass Fish Tavern is made up of an expansive yet irregularly L-shaped first-floor space, with a mezzanine level upstairs that gives off an entirely separate vibe. Instead of trying to force the same concept through a discontinuous room, the team opted to create separate experiences within the same space to allow guests to choose how to interact with the space. This concept ensures there are no lone corners and that every seat in the house is in demand.

The cozy izakaya space is housed to the right of the entryway, with its walls adorned with delicate, round ceramic plates, and shelves fully stocked with Japanese and other Asian condiments. Square-cornered wooden tables, wooden booth seating, an entirely different decorative theme, and a 21-foot juvenile blue whale skeleton suspended from the ceiling give this space its distinct look.

Various decorative elements on the main floor are intended to pique guests’ interest and start conversations, such as a century-old Free Press banner that once hung on the side of an ship, to-scale paintings of Adam and Eve, a set of nautical flags that have travelled with an old Welsh woman for the past 70 years, and life-sized trees sprouting from bespoke high-top tables offering conversations a hint of privacy without guests missing out on any of the social cheer and entertainment in the space. One could simply point at each of these decorative elements and ask ‘what is that?’ and spur a slew of entertaining and interesting stories.

The view from the second floor parlour.

Cozy booth seating in the main area on the first floor.

The upstairs stylish parlour room beckons for guests to settle into its soft, buttery leather sofas as they sip on the refreshing Highball cocktails from the menu. A single window draws in natural light, reflected off the dark walls and marble side tables. Soft under-lighting draws attention to the textile ceiling, and lush greenery warms the room with its luscious leaves. Spotlight and accent light bulbs are used to maintain a mysterious, dimly-lit space, inviting guests to relax and let the conversation flow.

The upstairs space offers several distinct social spaces that can accommodate larger groups, such as the long table space furnished with classic red, wooden chairs, and large, circular black pendant lights.

It’s definitely an interesting touch to include such distinct social spaces within the same restaurant, but Brass Fish Tavern has achieved this masterfully by not entirely closing off the connection between the upstairs and downstairs experiences. Guests can take in the social scene and entertainment happening on the lower level as they sip their drinks by the upstairs railing, and guests on the main floor can view the upper floor as a potential change of scenery after a high-energy dinner to slow down the pace of the evening.

ONE SPACE, MULTIPLE DINING EXPERIENCES

Brass Fish Tavern provides an inviting atmosphere for pairs or groups or even solo visitors to enjoy a drink from the cocktail menu. Pairs could grab a seat at the high top tables, groups can sit back and relax in the upstairs lounge tailored for socializing, and solo visitors can settle in on one of the red leather stools lining the bar.

The Donnelly Group Bar & Beverage Director Trevor Kallies has created a new cocktail list for Brass Fish Tavern which he hopes will “suit imbibers across all walks of life.” The focus is on Highball-style creations and unique takes on the classics--think Shiso-infused Whiskey Sodas, Passionfruit Palomas, and other tall refreshing drinks. We had a chance to try three recommended cocktails from the menu.

First up we had the Coco Russki, made with Absolut vodka, coconut milk, kahlua, and cold brew; a smooth and slightly creamy concoction that’s bound to be a pick-me-up at the end of a long workday.

Coco Russki - one of the highball features on the cocktail menu.

The Mixfit is influenced by delicious orient flavours, made with Suntory Toki Japanese Whisky, sesame syrup, lemon zest, and charred sesame. The charred sesame is placed delicately atop the drink, akin to how one would enjoy a chocolate or a madeleine with their coffee.

Stray Bullets, despite its name, is a rather vibrant and colourful cocktail, created with Olmeca Altos Tequila, citrus, sugar, passionfruit, and salted mango; sweet and tangy, this option goes well with rolls and shared plates from the Izakaya kitchen.

The Mixfit and Stray Bullets.

SHARE PLATES PERFECT FOR TWO OR A CROWD

Pub dining is all about bonding over drinks and shared plates, and the menu at Brass Fish was designed with a social atmosphere in mind.

Brass Fish Tavern pays homage to pub cuisine by blending pan-Asian flavours and ingredients into familiar dishes and shared plates. The resulting menu seamlessly blends West Coast and international influences with the classics of pub dining to create something genuinely new and authentically grounded in Vancouver.

The standalone Izakaya bar showcases modern expressions of Pacific Rim dining with a menu of small plates and rolls prepared by a dedicated chef who oversees this dining experience.

The Crudo features the day’s market dish - which was Hamachi - paired with sliced heirloom tomatoes and a medley of citrus, nori crust, and onion relish. The citrus and onion balance the rich but light taste of the Hamachi sashimi. We also appreciate how the tomatoes were presented on the dish as slices and not as whole tomatoes because a whole tomato would carry too much juice and flavour, covering the fresh flavour of the fish.

Crudo made with the day’s market fish - hamachi.

Topped with vibrant medley of diced vegetables and sliced heirloom tomatoes.

After a taste of the Hamachi crudo, we moved onto more flavourful options, and tried the cauliflower and broccoli served on a bed of charred brassica, crispy capers, romesco sauce. We loved the concentrated flavour of the crispy capers and the blend of textures in the dish, from the creamy romesco sauce to the chewy capers and crunchy broccoli. We only wished we had bread on the side to clean up every bit of the delicious spread!

If you order the Smoked Ham Croquettes, we recommend consuming this after other dishes because it has a kick to it and is delightfully, intensely flavoured. Deep-fried foods are most enjoyable with spicy condiments, and this dish finds just the right degree of flavour to make you want more.

Smoked Ham Croquettes in focus.

Our favourite thing about Brass Fish Tavern (aside from the cauliflower and broccoli) is how it has a space for every mood; the central space with its high ceiling and cozy booth seating makes it a great spot to catch up with one friend or many, the Izakaya bar lets you enjoy a different side of the food menu, and the upstairs lounge takes on a more laidback vibe with dim lighting and comfortable armchairs. Any time of day, you will find a right seat in this unique dining space for the occasion.

Visit

Brass Fish

385 Burrard St, Vancouver

(604) 336-9167

Photography by Florence Leung